Photodarkening: how and why!

If you have watched even one make-up artist at work, you have surely come across the word “light shading”… and not without reason, as it is the biggest secret behind perfecting all the features .

So what is this technique? What is it based on and what is it for?

Light shading is a technique based on the alternation of light and dark colours to highlight bright and shadowy areas. In makeup, it’s the basic principle behind every brushstroke, whether it’s for the eyes or any other spot.

Light and shadow

When a bright light hits a face, what happens is that all the protruding points are illuminated (nose, cheekbones, eyebrow bones, chin). While, in places where there is natural depth, a shadow will be created (under the bones, inside the eyes, neck, etc.)

Mimicking this principle, you can create shapes on the face from the beginning. Add “shadow” where you need depth and “light” where you want to give emphasis and volume. You shade the sides of a wide nose, for example, to “thin” it, or light the cheekbones to emphasize and “pop out”. “Shadow” in makeup, translates to either a darker foundation, or some powder, blush, etc. The “light”, in lighter Foundation and glow products. The ideal result will always be achieved when you work in combination.

Degradation

The technique of light shading gives the impression of a more relief face, as the eye has learned to distinguish depths and protrusions, based on their color difference.

However, the human face, by nature, is not made up of angles but of curves. Thus a natural shade under a pronounced cheekbone would never have a single absolute colour. Different shades would be created as the bones curve, with the darkest being at the point of greatest depth. So, it is extremely important that the materials you use are well worked on the leather, that the colours are well blended and that there is a clear colour gradient from light to dark and vice versa .

In this way, whatever characteristic you are facing, you can idealize it, thus bringing balance and harmony to the face.

Tips and tricks
  • Never put shiny products on broken or wrinkled skin.
  • Never use glow products on the skin under the eyes as they will look puffy.
  • Add light to the back and upper side of the cheekbones to highlight and volumize them
  • Wherever you want to “cut” from a face you use the shading technique (nose, forehead, forehead, cheek, neck)

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