Topical medications with vitamin A, commonly known as retinoids, can reduce fine lines and expression wrinkles. Tretinoin, branded Retin-A, was the first retinoid to be marketed. It was used as an acne treatment in the 1970s, but researchers later discovered that it increases pigmentation and speeds up the regeneration cycle of surface skin cells.
Retinoids actually reduce fine lines and expression wrinkles by noticeably increasing collagen production in the skin. They also stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin, thus improving discolorations and softening signs of photo-aging. However, it takes three to six months of regular use to show the first results, while the final anti-aging effect shows after twelve months.
Because retinoids can cause dryness and irritation of the skin, doctors often recommend using them only every second or third day at first, and then gradually increasing the dosage with applications every night before bedtime. In addition, it is necessary to use sunscreen during the day even in winter, because retinoids increase the skin’s sensitivity to light and heat from the sun.
Tretinoin can be used in combination with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) for additional effects of even better skin smoothing. However, many over-the-counter products containing retinoids, such as retinol, are available on the cosmetic market. Because they are not as strong in their composition, on the one hand they irritate the skin less in the early stages of treatment, on the other hand they are not as effective in reducing wrinkles as retinoids.
Instead of retinol removing dead skin cells like many other anti-aging products do, the small molecules that make up retinol go deep under your skin. Once in this middle layer of the skin, retinol helps neutralize free radicals to boost elastin and collagen production. This creates an effect that reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and enlarged pores.
At the same time, retinol has an exfoliating effect on the skin, which can further improve the texture and tone of the skin. Finally, retinol has been shown to balance skin hydration levels. The mild exfoliating effects help to remove dead skin cells, which can lead to moisture loss. This can even benefit oily skin by controlling excessive sebum production in your pores.
