I greet you once again my dear one!
Today we are going to talk about something very, very, very important.
We will talk about the Alpha and Omega before each technical task.
And that is the quality of our client’s hair .
It is the diagnostic map that we will create in our minds so that after we are given the right coordinates to reach the treasure unscathed, that is, with great hair!
So what should we do during the diagnosis?
These 4 very simple tests:
1) Porosity test :
It shows us how damaged the hair is.
The more damaged, the more absorbent because the cuticle is open and does not protect the inside.
When a hair is very damaged it absorbs much more and dries much slower.
How is it done?
In a low clear glass of water, drop 1 hair into it and observe it.
If it stays on the surface then it has low porosity.
If left in the middle it has medium porosity.
If it goes to the bottom of the glass then it has a high porosity which means you have to be much more careful with the technical work.
2) Elasticity test
It shows us the ability of the hair to lengthen and return to its original length without affecting its structure.
How is it done?
Grab a hair with both hands and try to pull it out.
It usually has the ability to lengthen by 1/3.
The healthy hair will come back, the damaged one not to 100% and the damaged one will probably break.
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3) Allergic reaction test
There are also those rare cases when an allergic reaction on the skin is created from mild to very severe.
For this reason, we must therefore do this test 48 hours before using a dye product:
On the inside of the elbow or behind the ear, apply a small amount of dye with the help of a cotton swab.
Allow 45 minutes and rinse with lukewarm water.
If within the next 48 hours any discomfort appears then we cannot continue with technical work in direct contact with the skin.
4)Compatibility test
Many of the products used by our client or even techniques e.g. for pigment removal leave a lot of residues and metallic salts in the hair.
The further we get away from Athens, the more remains we will find on the hair.
This test is done in the following way:
Cut a few strands of hair and secure them with tape.
You have made a mixture of 40 ml of 20 degree acetic acid and 2 ml of ammonia.
Dip the hairs in and wait 30 minutes.
If the hairs change colour or if bubbles are created in our mixture, it can be seen that they are negatively charged with minerals and residues.
Fortunately, however, as the years go by, hairdressing evolves.
With the valuable help of science, products have been created that remove all residues and metals leaving a wonderful healthy canvas to work on without having to do this test.
Touch the hair, let your sense and your knowledge guide you.
The more attention you pay to your hair, the more they will have to tell you and the better results you will enjoy!
Trust your instinct, your knowledge and your experience !
Calliope Veniou
xxx